Oh, My God in Naoshima

I visited to Naoshima alone last month and loved everything there, especially the Chichu Museum. Impeccable integration of art by James Turrell, Monet and Walter De Maria, the architecture by Tadao Ando and atmosphere---Sublime, spiritual and substantial. I found myself all alone in each space, which was such a rare opportunity and luxury.
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First, Naoshima was a far-away-island --- an over 3 hour Shinkansen ride, and 2 local trains, which were not connected so well, then an one hour getting- stuck at Uno port, then a 20 min ferry ride, then the bus. phew… I left home around 7:30 am and by the time I checked in the Benesse house, it was already 2 pm.

Yet, when I saw the ocean and a big yellow pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama, my spirit was already uplifted. Yes, YEs, and YES, I made it!
Birds were singing from everywhere as if they were welcoming me and the flowers were glooming in profusion. Dumping some of my belongings at the room, I rushed out to explore the art sites in nature.
Walking along the beach and up to the hill, here and there, some artworks were sat on the beach or the land as if they were abandoned objects. And Seascape by Hiroshi Sugimoto was up on the cliff. Where possibly could you see his work like that?

Then, a great collection of the works by CY Twombly, Jannis Kounellis, Yukio Yanagi, Hiroshi Sugimoto, Warhol, Basquiat and more were on display at the Benesse museum. What a wow. I could not help taking photographs secretively despite the prohibition. As an Aquarius who doesn't follow a rule, I got to do.

Next day, it was unfortunately raining with harsh sea breeze. Yet, my steps were aerial to explore the House project. I enjoyed walking through the classical townscape where almost there was nobody besides me. Ah, I have to say, I love good old Japanese culture.

There were five classic houses where artworks were integrated.
- Tatsuo Miyajima
- James Turrell
- Hiroshi Sugimoto
- Shinro Ohtake
- Hiroshi Senjyu
Among all, James Turell and Tatsuo Miyajima were my favorite. I will not tell you the details, as you need to experience them on your own.

Yet, just as a travel tip, I was putting on my long boots and every place, i was asked to take them off. So, when you go, please wear a pair of shoes that is easy to take off. This putting them on and off action really gets one's nerve.

After having a piece of cake with a cup of coffee at a cafe where the shoes were allowed(!), I headed to the Chichu Museum.

First, Monet. "Monet? here? Who cares?" Sorry to be rude, but that's my first reaction, as I didn't expect to see Monet in such a contemporary architecture, designed by Tadao Ando and all the way here. Then again, the security asked me to take off the shoes. "Oh, Again? Come on, this is the Museum, not someone's house for crisis sake. How many times do I have to?" I was really annoyed, bitching a lot in my mind. Then, after walking though a white space, there it was. Monet's large diptych Water Lily was in front of my eyes, dazzling like the full moon. "Wow….!" There were 4 more beautiful Monet's Water Lilies. " Oh my god." To be honest with you, I never expected myself to feel so moved and touched by Monet, as in a normal circumstance, Monet's painting in an old fashioned decorative frame is jammed on the wall with some works by another masters' paintings. Right? But, in the atmosphere, I was speechless and I almost kneeled down as if I unexpectedly encountered a God or something bigger than a human being. (I mean even if I'd wanted to talk, I was alone, so I could not talk to anybody anyway.)
It had to do with how they were installed---The tiled floor, and the paintings in the white frame that were embedded in the wall and the indirect lighting. The room was just dedicated to these beautiful 5 Monets. It is true that how a work becomes so alive does depend on how it is installed, beside the fact that the work has to be good. I was absolutely stunned by the whole set-up and truly appreciated his paintings.
Sitting down on the bench in the middle of the room, I was contemplating for a while about what Monet saw in his eyes and closed my eyes to talk to him in my mind. My eyes got teary in rapture. Somehow, yes, I felt connected to him.

The next is Turrell.

OK, again, I knew that I had to take off my shoes, so I needed to be realistic here. I walked up to his section without putting them back on. Then the security stopped me, "Miss, Miss, please put on your shoes? " in a polite manner. But I ignored her. Sorry, but "No fxxxxx way! enough is enough" (in my mind, of course.) There you go, there was another security waiting to tell me, "please take off…." Well, she saw me without the shoes and stopped. I smiled at her. " A ha! " Then, she explained " You are to walk up the stair, but please be careful as the stairs are slippery and blur blur blur…" I was not listening. I guess I was turning into a real New Yorker after 8 years? --no patience. (Sorry, New Yorkers!! ) After her long talk, I was led by her to walk up the stairs slowly and go into the hollow filled with subtle blue light, Open Filed. Just there was myself (with this security…. yikes.) in the absolute blue world. I felt as if i were inside of a soap bubble, being out of balance. Very dreamy and calming… Could the inside of a womb be like this? Another "OMG" here.

While I was experiencing sheer pleasure, Luckily, the rain stopped. I do feel the existence of the universe force in such a small miracle. I walked up to another work, Open Sky by Turell. I sat there and looked up the sky through the square frame. Due to the winds, the thick clouds were moving so hasty and I felt like viewing a live painting performance.

Then, Walter de Maria.
Wow, first I didn't have to take off my shoes! Yes.
Then, entering into a huge space, which looks like a contemporary version of a church. In the middle of steps, there was a gigantic black sphere sculpture in a balance and was illuminated from the skylight on the ceiling. On the concrete wall, a set of 3 rectangular gold leaf covered sculpture were installed, which looked like an organ. I almost heard a hymn tune. Sublime. I was walking closer to it and I saw myself reflected on the surface. Am I watching myself from the outside or the inside of the ball? Indeed, mythical and divine.

The wholes set up was just amazing and splendor.
Artificial and nature could go hand in hand. The world of aesthetic, everything in my eyes was. in my heart and spirit.
I needed so badly to get hell out of Tokyo and unexpectedly this visit turned into a spiritual re-awaking experience. This is a MUST destination for not only art lovers but all.

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